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A raised, directional surface texture, as on velvet or corduroy, that catches light differently depending on which way the fabric faces.

A raised, directional surface texture, as on velvet, corduroy or fleece, that reflects light and feels different depending on which way it is stroked; pattern pieces must be cut in one direction.

Pattern pieces cut with pile running in different directions on fabrics like velvet or corduroy look a different shade once assembled. Always cut all pieces with a with-nap layout, following the pattern's nap arrow.

A cutting layout in which all pattern pieces are placed facing the same direction, required for fabrics with a directional pile, shine, or print.

Running short of fabric or ending up with mismatched shading happens when a with-nap layout wasn't used for pile or one-way print fabrics. Check the pattern's nap yardage, usually higher, and lay pieces facing one way.

Small square of fabric, hemmed or mitred on all sides, used at the table and often made in matching sets as a simple sewing project.

Panels of the same fabric appearing to be different colors under light is an optical effect from pile fibers lying in opposing directions, not a dye issue. Cut every piece in the same nap direction.

A back width narrower than the standard pattern block assumes, causing excess fabric to pool between the shoulder blades and the armhole to hang away from the body.

A hem folded up a small, consistent width, often three to six millimeters, and stitched close to the fold; common on linings and lightweight fabrics.

A pattern alteration that shortens the shoulder seam of a bodice pattern to fit shoulders narrower than the standard block assumes, preventing the sleeve seam from drooping.

A seam stitched with a narrow, short zigzag stitch on a conventional machine to allow the stitching to stretch with knit fabric without popping.

Fabric colouring method using dyes extracted from plants, insects, or minerals rather than synthetic dyestuffs, often requiring a mordant to fix colour to the fibre.

A tailoring tradition from Naples, Italy, known for soft, lightly padded shoulders, minimal internal structure, and a relaxed, body-skimming fit suited to warm Mediterranean climates.

A modification made to an existing neckline pattern, such as lowering it, adding a facing shape, or changing it from a round to a V or square neckline.

A narrow strip of fabric, typically cut on the bias and interlined, worn knotted around a shirt collar as a decorative accessory.

The reciprocating vertical bar that holds the needle clamp and drives the needle up and down through the fabric with each stitch cycle.

The snapping of a sewing machine needle, typically from hitting a pin, a bent needle, the wrong needle size, or fabric being pulled against the feed.

A snapped needle usually means fabric was pulled while sewing, a pin was hit, or the needle was too fine for the fabric. Slow down, clear pins from the stitch path, and size up the needle.

The flat metal plate beneath the needle and presser foot, marked with seam allowance guidelines and pierced by openings for the feed dogs and needle.

The numbering conventions, chiefly the European metric size and American size, used to indicate a sewing machine needle's shaft diameter and suitability for fabric weight.

Top thread pulling free from the needle on the first few stitches is usually too short a tail left when starting, or threading with the presser foot down. Leave longer tails and thread with the foot raised.

Hand applique method in which the seam allowance of a motif is turned under and stitched invisibly to the background fabric as the seam is sewn, favoured for smooth curves.

A finished garment measurement smaller than the body measurement it covers, relying on stretch fabric to fit snugly, as commonly used for knitwear and activewear.

A synthetic rubber sandwiched between fabric layers to form a thick, spongy, water-resistant material with body and structure, used in wetsuits and structured garments.

A multi-size pattern printed with the cutting lines for every included size layered on top of one another on a single pattern piece.

The way multiple sizes of a pattern piece are layered and printed as concentric cutting lines on a single sheet, one inside the other.

Christian Dior's debut collection, presented in February 1947, featuring nipped waists, padded hips, and full calf-length skirts that used yards of fabric, a dramatic break from wartime austerity.

Interfacing made from bonded or pressed fibres with no grainline, cuttable in any direction, generally lower cost but with less natural drape than woven types.

A small triangular or single mark cut or printed along a pattern piece's edge, used to line pattern pieces up correctly with each other during sewing.

A small mark or triangular clip on a pattern piece's cutting line used to align pieces correctly during construction and indicate seam allowances or ease points.

A tailored collar and lapel combination joined at an angled seam, creating a V-shaped notch where the two pieces meet.

A lapel style in which the collar and lapel meet at an angled notch, the standard configuration on single-breasted jackets and blazers.

Small marks cut or drawn into the seam allowance edge of a pattern piece to indicate matching points between pieces, easing locations, or the front and back of a garment.

Cutting small wedge-shaped notches out of a curved seam allowance, especially an outward curve, to remove excess bulk so the seam lies flat.

The small supporting supplies needed to complete a garment beyond the fabric itself, such as thread, buttons, zippers, hooks, and elastic.

Discreet opening, overlap, or panel built into a garment's bodice to allow breastfeeding access without fully undressing, such as a wrap front or hidden zip.

A strong, elastic synthetic polyamide fibre with high abrasion resistance, used in activewear, linings and hosiery; melts rather than burns under heat.