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A raised, directional surface texture, as on velvet, corduroy or fleece, that reflects light and feels different depending on which way it is stroked; pattern pieces must be cut in one direction.

Pattern pieces cut with pile running in different directions on fabrics like velvet or corduroy look a different shade once assembled. Always cut all pieces with a with-nap layout, following the pattern's nap arrow.

A cutting layout in which all pattern pieces are placed facing the same direction, required for fabrics with a directional pile, shine, or print.

Running short of fabric or ending up with mismatched shading happens when a with-nap layout wasn't used for pile or one-way print fabrics. Check the pattern's nap yardage, usually higher, and lay pieces facing one way.

Panels of the same fabric appearing to be different colors under light is an optical effect from pile fibers lying in opposing directions, not a dye issue. Cut every piece in the same nap direction.

A back width narrower than the standard pattern block assumes, causing excess fabric to pool between the shoulder blades and the armhole to hang away from the body.

A pattern alteration that shortens the shoulder seam of a bodice pattern to fit shoulders narrower than the standard block assumes, preventing the sleeve seam from drooping.

Fabric colouring method using dyes extracted from plants, insects, or minerals rather than synthetic dyestuffs, often requiring a mordant to fix colour to the fibre.

A modification made to an existing neckline pattern, such as lowering it, adding a facing shape, or changing it from a round to a V or square neckline.

A narrow strip of fabric, typically cut on the bias and interlined, worn knotted around a shirt collar as a decorative accessory.

The reciprocating vertical bar that holds the needle clamp and drives the needle up and down through the fabric with each stitch cycle.

The numbering conventions, chiefly the European metric size and American size, used to indicate a sewing machine needle's shaft diameter and suitability for fabric weight.

Hand applique method in which the seam allowance of a motif is turned under and stitched invisibly to the background fabric as the seam is sewn, favoured for smooth curves.

A finished garment measurement smaller than the body measurement it covers, relying on stretch fabric to fit snugly, as commonly used for knitwear and activewear.

A multi-size pattern printed with the cutting lines for every included size layered on top of one another on a single pattern piece.

The way multiple sizes of a pattern piece are layered and printed as concentric cutting lines on a single sheet, one inside the other.

Christian Dior's debut collection, presented in February 1947, featuring nipped waists, padded hips, and full calf-length skirts that used yards of fabric, a dramatic break from wartime austerity.

Discreet opening, overlap, or panel built into a garment's bodice to allow breastfeeding access without fully undressing, such as a wrap front or hidden zip.

A strong, elastic synthetic polyamide fibre with high abrasion resistance, used in activewear, linings and hosiery; melts rather than burns under heat.