Techniques

Stitching stay tape around an armhole seam in a tailored jacket to prevent the armhole from stretching during construction and wear.

A technique for constructing and turning a fully lined garment, such as a jacket, right side out through a small opening so all raw edges end up enclosed.

An inset pocket finished with two narrow folded strips forming lips on either side of a slit opening, commonly used on tailored jackets and trousers.

Rigid or semi-rigid strips, historically whalebone and now plastic or steel, inserted into channels within a bodice to maintain a fitted, structured shape.

A buttonhole finished with folded fabric strips, or lips, instead of thread, giving a tailored, couture-quality opening usually made before the garment is fully assembled.

A line of hand or machine stitching that secures twill tape along a jacket's roll line and front edge, controlling stretch and maintaining shape during tailoring.

A dart that curves inward at the middle and points at both ends, shaping fabric closely to the body at the waist without a horizontal seam.

A shaped, curved waistband cut to follow the body's natural waist curve rather than a straight strip, giving a closer fit without a separate casing.

A technique in which a decorative thread or cord is laid on the fabric surface and secured in place with small stitches worked over it.

A decorative technique that joins two finished edges with an open, ladder-like pattern of stitches across a visible gap, rather than a closed seam.

A small, slanted hand stitch used to permanently secure a folded edge flat against another layer, such as a facing or waistband lining, common in couture finishing.

A zipper closure concealed behind an extended, shaped fly facing and underlap, typical of trousers and jeans.

A doubled-back shirt cuff, folded over and fastened with cufflinks rather than a button, giving a dressier finish.

A short thread chain, several strands long, connecting a lining to a garment at the hem, allowing movement without the layers separating.

A small diamond or triangular piece of fabric inserted at the underarm or crotch seam to add ease of movement and reduce stress on the seam.

A woven interfacing of hair, wool, and cotton fibers, hand or machine stitched into a jacket's chest and lapel to build structured, moldable shape in traditional tailoring.

An extremely narrow seam trimmed close to the stitching line after sewing, used on sheer fabrics such as chiffon or lace to minimize visible bulk.

A hem invisibly secured by hand stitching rather than machine stitching, standard in couture and fine tailoring for its near-invisible finish.

A zipper inserted using small, evenly spaced hand backstitches or prick stitches along the zipper tape instead of machine topstitching, for an inconspicuous couture finish.

A very narrow hem formed by rolling the raw edge between the fingers and securing it with tiny whipstitches, used on scarves, ruffles, and fine fabrics.

A hem stiffened and given body by stitching horsehair braid to the raw edge before turning it up, common on formal and bridal skirts.

An inset pocket finished with narrow piped edges, or jets, framing a slit opening, similar to a besom pocket but typically without a flap.

An invisible hand stitch worked between two folded edges, drawing them together in a closed seam commonly used to close stuffed items or linings.

A tailored collar and lapel combination joined at an angled seam, creating a V-shaped notch where the two pieces meet.

Small, diagonal hand stitches worked in rows through canvas and fabric layers to permanently mold and shape a tailored collar or lapel.

A waistband faced or entirely constructed from ribbed petersham ribbon, molded with heat and stitched to sit smoothly inside a skirt or trouser waist without a separate facing.

A variation of backstitch that picks up only a tiny amount of fabric on the right side, used to hand-set zippers or topstitch in couture work almost invisibly.

A narrow tube of bias-cut fabric turned right side out, used for spaghetti straps, ties, frog closures, and thread loops.

A seam finish in which one allowance is trimmed narrow and the wider allowance is folded over it and stitched down, enclosing both raw edges without extra binding.

A collar cut in one piece with the front facing, curving continuously around the back neck without a notch, typical of tuxedo jackets and cardigans.

A small tuck stitched and then pulled with an overcast or zigzag stitch to create a scalloped, shell-like bump along an edge, used decoratively on lingerie and blouses.

A strip of wadding or bias-cut fabric inserted into the sleeve cap seam to support the ease and maintain a smooth, rounded shoulder shape.

A decorative technique that gathers fabric into small, controlled folds secured with embroidery stitches, both shaping and ornamenting the surface.

Stitching twill tape along a lapel's roll line to stabilize it and control the exact point and angle at which the lapel folds back.

Corded or padded quilting technique in which a design is outlined through two fabric layers, then stuffed from the back so the motif stands out in high relief.

The often bias-cut, slightly smaller layer of a tailored collar that sits against the neck, allowing the upper collar to roll smoothly over it without show-through.

An inset pocket with a narrow strip of fabric, the welt, standing up or lying flat over the opening on the outside of the garment.