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Techniques
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Armhole taping
Stitching stay tape around an armhole seam in a tailored jacket to prevent the armhole from stretching during construction and wear.
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Bridle stitch
A line of hand or machine stitching that secures twill tape along a jacket's roll line and front edge, controlling stretch and maintaining shape during tailoring.
advanced · Tailoring
Hair canvas interfacing
A woven interfacing of hair, wool, and cotton fibers, hand or machine stitched into a jacket's chest and lapel to build structured, moldable shape in traditional tailoring.
advanced · Tailoring
Sleeve head
A strip of wadding or bias-cut fabric inserted into the sleeve cap seam to support the ease and maintain a smooth, rounded shoulder shape.
advanced · Tailoring
Taping the roll line
Stitching twill tape along a lapel's roll line to stabilize it and control the exact point and angle at which the lapel folds back.
advanced · Tailoring
Under-collar
The often bias-cut, slightly smaller layer of a tailored collar that sits against the neck, allowing the upper collar to roll smoothly over it without show-through.
advanced · Tailoring