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A 'tried and true' pattern that a sewist has made successfully before, knows fits well, and can sew again with confidence.

French for a test garment sewn up in inexpensive fabric to check a design's fit before cutting into the final fabric; used more often outside the US than the equivalent term muslin.

A trial garment made from inexpensive fabric to test and refine the fit and construction of a pattern before cutting the intended fashion fabric.

Loops of top-color thread on the fabric's wrong side signal top tension that's too loose, or a bobbin wound or threaded incorrectly. Tighten the top tension and rewind the bobbin evenly.

Visible stitching worked on the right side of a garment, often with a longer stitch length or heavier thread, used to reinforce seams and add decorative definition.

Simple open-top bag pattern, typically constructed from two rectangular panels with straps, sewn with or without a lining, used as a foundational bag-making project.

The process of copying a pattern piece, whether from a commercial pattern, a garment, or another pattern, onto new paper so the original can be preserved and the copy altered.

A tool with a small spiked or serrated wheel, rolled along pattern lines to transfer markings onto fabric, typically paired with dressmaker's carbon paper.

A fine, lightweight net fabric with a hexagonal mesh, used for veils, tutus and skirt volume; does not fray, so edges can be left raw.

A loose, straight or lightly shaped top extending to the hip or thigh, historically derived from ancient draped garments and worn over trousers or leggings.

A seam finish made by folding the raw edge of the seam allowance under a small amount and edge-stitching it in place.

A weave structure with diagonal ribs formed by offsetting the weft float by one warp thread each row, giving fabrics like denim and gabardine extra drape and durability.

Short for 'unfinished object,' a sewing project that has been started but set aside or abandoned before it was ever completed.

Stitching worked close to a seam that secures a facing or lining to its seam allowance so it rolls neatly to the inside and stays hidden.

A row of stitching through the facing and seam allowances, close to the seam, that keeps the facing from rolling to the outside of the garment.

A hemline that dips or rises around the garment instead of sitting level usually comes from not letting the garment hang before marking, so bias areas drop further. Let it hang, then mark and true the hem.

Stitches that vary in size along a seam usually come from inconsistent feeding, a dull needle snagging the weave, or pulling fabric by hand instead of letting the feed dogs work. Let the machine feed naturally.

A general-purpose sewing machine needle with a slightly rounded point, suited to most woven fabrics and light to medium knits.

Removing incorrect stitches without tearing the fabric means cutting only every third or fourth stitch on one side with a seam ripper, then pulling the intact thread free from the other side. Work slowly on delicate weaves.

A neckline cut in a symmetrical V shape from the shoulders to a point at the center front, without a collar.

Topstitching that wanders off an even line instead of running parallel to the edge usually comes from sewing too fast without a guide. Use the presser foot edge as a guide and slow down on curves.

Lightweight, sheer, plain-weave fabric, typically cotton or a cotton blend, with a soft drape used for blouses, curtains, and heirloom sewing.

A dart originating at the waist edge of a bodice or skirt pattern and tapering toward the bust or hip, used to shape flat fabric to the body's curve.

The horizontal circumference taken around the narrowest part of the torso, typically above the navel, used to size skirts, trousers, and fitted bodices.

A fitted band of fabric, often interfaced, attached to the top edge of a skirt or trousers to finish the waist and anchor a closure.

The process of drafting a straight or shaped band attached to the top edge of a skirt or trouser pattern to finish and support the waistline.

Simple hand stitch worked over an edge in a spiral of diagonal loops, used to join two folded edges, secure trims, or finish raw edges quickly.

Short for 'work in progress,' a sewing project currently being made, often photographed and shared on social media before it is finished.

An animal protein fibre from sheep's fleece with natural crimp and elasticity, providing warmth and moisture-wicking; ranges from fine merino to coarse tweed wool.

A dress with a front closure formed by wrapping one side of the bodice over the other and tying at the waist, requiring no zipper or buttons.

A skirt made from a single overlapping panel of fabric that wraps around the body and fastens at the waist with ties, buttons, or a buckle.

The circumference of the wrist, used to size cuffs and determine the ease needed for a sleeve opening or long-sleeve hem to slide over the hand.

Snagged knits, popped threads on wovens, or skipped stitches on stretch fabric often trace to a sharp needle on knits or a ballpoint on wovens. Match needle type to fabric: ballpoint for knits, sharp for wovens.

The reverse, less finished side of a piece of fabric that is meant to face inward and stay hidden from view.

The total amount of fabric, measured in yards or meters, that a project requires or that a particular piece of fabric contains.

Close-fitting, high-rise leggings made from stretch knit fabric, designed to move with the body during exercise while remaining opaque under stretch.

A raw-edge finish made by stitching a zigzag stitch along the edge of each seam allowance to prevent fraying on a standard sewing machine.

A stitch that swings side to side as it forms, used for finishing raw edges, sewing stretch fabrics, and decorative topstitching.

A mechanical fastener of two rows of teeth or coils drawn together by a sliding pull, used to close openings in garments and bags.

A garment closure of interlocking teeth drawn together by a sliding tab; Gideon Sundback patented a reliable version in 1913, and fashion designers popularized it on clothing in the 1930s.