Techniques

Embellishment technique for attaching flat or cupped sequins to fabric by hand or machine, either singly with a backstitch or in overlapping rows for continuous shine.

A raw-edge finish produced on an overlocker that trims and encases the seam allowance edge in interlocked thread loops in a single pass.

A sleeve cut separately and stitched into a fitted armhole, requiring eased fullness at the cap to fit smoothly over the shoulder.

A facing cut to mirror the exact curve of the edge it finishes, such as a neckline or armhole facing, rather than a straight strip.

A collar cut in one piece with the front facing, curving continuously around the back neck without a notch, typical of tuxedo jackets and cardigans.

A small tuck stitched and then pulled with an overcast or zigzag stitch to create a scalloped, shell-like bump along an edge, used decoratively on lingerie and blouses.

Multiple parallel rows of gathering, often stitched with elastic thread in the bobbin, that create stretchy, textured fullness over an area of fabric.

Attaching a shaped foam or fiber shoulder pad inside a garment's shoulder seam to build out and support the shoulder line.

A pocket accessed through a diagonal or curved slit cut into the garment, with the pocket bag hidden behind the opening.

The small amount of extra fullness built into a sleeve cap above the arm's actual circumference, eased in to create smooth shape over the shoulder.

A strip of wadding or bias-cut fabric inserted into the sleeve cap seam to support the ease and maintain a smooth, rounded shoulder shape.

A finished slit at the sleeve hem, often on tailored jacket cuffs, that may be functional with real buttonholes or purely decorative.

A nearly invisible hand stitch that catches a few threads of the garment fabric and slides through the folded edge of a hem or lining.

A decorative seam in which two folded edges are spaced apart over a separate strip of fabric and topstitched on both sides, creating a centered inset panel.

A decorative technique that gathers fabric into small, controlled folds secured with embroidery stitches, both shaping and ornamenting the surface.

A narrow tape of twill, selvage, or fusible material stitched or fused along a seam or edge, such as a shoulder seam or neckline, to prevent stretching.

Using steam heat with an iron to shape, flatten, or set fabric and stitching without excessive direct pressure, useful for wool and shaping curves.

Hand embroidery stitch worked in overlapping slanted stitches along a line, producing a narrow twisted rope effect used for outlines, stems, and lettering.

A specialized machine straight stitch that sews with a slight forward-and-back motion, allowing the seam to stretch without breaking thread on knit fabrics.

A firmly stuffed, curved pressing cushion used to press darts, curved seams, and shaped areas like bust and hip curves without flattening the curve.

Loose loops of thread sewn through pattern and fabric layers to mark construction points such as darts and pocket placement, removed once the marks are transferred.

Stitching twill tape along a lapel's roll line to stabilize it and control the exact point and angle at which the lapel folds back.

Visible stitching worked on the right side of a garment, often with a longer stitch length or heavier thread, used to reinforce seams and add decorative definition.

Corded or padded quilting technique in which a design is outlined through two fabric layers, then stuffed from the back so the motif stands out in high relief.

A finish in which a strip of stretch tricot bias tape is wrapped and stitched over the raw seam edge, common in ready-to-wear tailoring.

A seam finish made by folding the raw edge of the seam allowance under a small amount and edge-stitching it in place.

A hem stitched with a double needle to create two parallel rows of straight stitching on top and a zigzag-like stretch stitch underneath, standard for knit hems.

The often bias-cut, slightly smaller layer of a tailored collar that sits against the neck, allowing the upper collar to roll smoothly over it without show-through.

A row of stitching through the facing and seam allowances, close to the seam, that keeps the facing from rolling to the outside of the garment.

A fitted band of fabric, often interfaced, attached to the top edge of a skirt or trousers to finish the waist and anchor a closure.

Sewing with a walking foot that feeds top and bottom fabric layers evenly, preventing knit or slippery fabrics from shifting or stretching unevenly while stitching.

An inset pocket with a narrow strip of fabric, the welt, standing up or lying flat over the opening on the outside of the garment.

A seam pressed to one side with the underneath allowance trimmed narrower, then topstitched through both layers for a flat, durable finish.

Simple hand stitch worked over an edge in a spiral of diagonal loops, used to join two folded edges, secure trims, or finish raw edges quickly.

A raw-edge finish made by stitching a zigzag stitch along the edge of each seam allowance to prevent fraying on a standard sewing machine.