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Coverstitch
A stitch made on a coverstitch machine that forms parallel rows of stitching on top and interlocked loops beneath, used for stretchy, professional-looking knit hems and seams.
intermediate · Knits & stretch
Coverstitch machine
A machine that sews two or three parallel rows of straight stitching on top with interlocking looper threads underneath, used for hems and flat seams on knits.
intermediate · Overlockers & coverstitch
Coverstitch skipping
Skipped stitches on a coverstitch hem, especially at the seam start, usually come from an unstabilized layer or fabric not feeding evenly under both needles. Use a stabilizer strip and start on a fabric leader.
advanced · Stitch & thread problems
Cowl neck
A neckline formed from bias-cut fabric that drapes into soft, loose folds below the collarbone rather than lying flat.
intermediate · Neckline & collar types
Crepe
A fabric with a crimped, pebbly surface produced by high-twist yarns, heat-setting or a crepe weave, giving good drape and a matte finish.
intermediate · Woven fabrics
Crinoline
A stiffened or hooped petticoat used to hold out a wide skirt; the cage crinoline of steel hoops, introduced around 1856, replaced heavy layered petticoats and dominated 1860s fashion.
intermediate · Historical garments & silhouettes
Cristóbal Balenciaga
Spanish couturier who opened his Paris house in 1937, renowned for sculptural, architectural silhouettes such as the sack dress and balloon skirt built through precise draping and construction.
intermediate · Couture houses & designers
Crop top
A fitted or loose upper-body garment cut to end above the natural waistline, exposing part of the midriff.
beginner · Tops & shirts
Croquis
A simplified, elongated figure template used by fashion designers to sketch clothing designs quickly onto a consistent body proportion.
intermediate · Industry & business terms
Cross back measurement
The width measured straight across the upper back from one armhole seam to the other, used to check the fit of a garment's shoulders and back.
advanced · Measurement terms
Cross stitch
X-shaped hand embroidery stitch formed by two crossing diagonal stitches, traditionally worked on even-weave fabric using a grid to build geometric or pictorial motifs.
beginner · Embellishment & surface design
Crosswise grain
The direction fabric threads run from one selvedge to the other, perpendicular to the lengthwise grain and usually with a bit more give.
beginner · Fabric & grain terms
Crotch curve
The curved seam line of a trouser pattern that shapes the crotch area between the front and back leg pieces, critical to comfort and the elimination of crotch wrinkles.
advanced · Drafting skirts & trousers
Crotch depth
The vertical distance from the waist to the seat while seated, used in trouser drafting to position the crotch line and set the rise of the pattern.
intermediate · Measuring
Crotch pulling
Fabric pulling tight and creasing across the crotch of trousers usually comes from a crotch curve too shallow or a rise too short for the wearer. Lower the curve or lengthen the rise in a future muslin.
advanced · Fit & construction problems
Crotch wrinkles
Diagonal wrinkles radiating from the crotch seam of trousers, indicating that the crotch curve, rise, or crotch length does not match the wearer's body shape.
intermediate · Fitting problems
Cuff
A band of fabric finishing the end of a sleeve or trouser leg, which may be fitted, folded, or fastened with a button or elastic.
beginner · Garment components
Cuff draft
The process of constructing a band or shaped pattern piece that finishes the opening of a sleeve at the wrist, sized to the wrist measurement plus ease for closure.
intermediate · Drafting sleeves & collars
Cuff placket
A finished opening at the sleeve hem, faced or bound with a separate strip, that allows the cuff to open wide enough to fit over the hand.
intermediate · Sleeves & cuffs
Culottes
Wide-legged trousers cut to resemble a skirt, with each leg constructed as a separate panel joined at a center seam.
intermediate · Trousers & shorts
Curling facings
A facing edge that rolls to the outside instead of staying tucked inside usually means it lacks understitching or the interfacing is too light. Understitch close to the seam and match interfacing weight to the fabric.
intermediate · Finishing problems
Curtain heading
Top finish of a curtain that determines how it hangs and gathers, such as pencil pleat, eyelet, or tab top, usually stiffened with heading tape or interfacing.
intermediate · Home & gifts
Curtain lining
Fabric layer sewn or attached to the back of curtain fabric to block light, protect against fading, and add body and drape to the finished curtain.
intermediate · Home & gifts
Cushion cover
Fabric covering pattern for a cushion pad, closed with a zipper, envelope overlap, or buttons, typically one of the first upholstery-style projects for a beginner.
beginner · Home & gifts
Cut-and-spread grading
A manual grading method in which a pattern is sliced along designated lines and spread apart or overlapped by fixed increments to create a larger or smaller size.
advanced · Ease & sizing
Cutting layout
The diagram included in pattern instructions showing exactly how to arrange all the pattern pieces on folded or open fabric before cutting.
beginner · Pattern terms
Cutting line
The outer line marked on a pattern piece indicating exactly where to cut the fabric, positioned beyond the seam line by the width of the seam allowance.
beginner · Pattern terms
Cutting mat
A self-healing, gridded mat that protects work surfaces and guides straight or angled cuts when used together with a rotary cutter.
beginner · Cutting tools
Cutting off-grain
Pattern pieces that hang crookedly or twist once sewn were likely cut without aligning the grainline to the fabric's lengthwise threads. Measure the grainline arrow from the selvedge at both ends before pinning down.
beginner · Cutting & pattern problems
Cutting table
A large, flat, sturdy work surface, often at standing height, sized for laying out fabric and patterns for cutting.
beginner · Dress forms & workspace
Cutting the wrong size line
Multi-size patterns nested together make it easy to accidentally follow a neighboring size's line partway around a piece. Trace or highlight the chosen size clearly before cutting, checking closely at every curve.
beginner · Cutting & pattern problems
Cylinder bed machine
An industrial machine with a narrow, tube-shaped bed that allows sewing on cuffs, cylindrical items, and other hard-to-reach curved seams.
advanced · Industrial machines
Darning
A woven-thread repair for holes and thin worn patches, built by stitching a grid of threads across the gap and weaving a needle over and under them to recreate fabric. Common on socks and knitwear.
intermediate · Mending & repair
Darning foot
A small, often spring-loaded hoop-shaped presser foot used with the feed dogs dropped for free-motion stitching, darning, and thread sketching.
intermediate · Presser feet
Dart
A tapered fold of fabric stitched to a point that removes excess fullness and shapes flat fabric to a body curve, such as at the bust or waist.
beginner · Shaping (darts, gathers, pleats, tucks)
Dart manipulation
The technique of moving a dart from one location on a pattern to another while keeping the garment's overall fit and shape unchanged.
advanced · Pattern terms
Dart notation
The standard set of lines and symbols used to draw a dart on a pattern, showing its legs, apex, and fold line so it can be transferred accurately to fabric.
beginner · Pattern markings & conventions
Dart point relocation
The process of moving a dart's point closer to or farther from the bust or hip apex to correct fit or match a design change.
intermediate · Fit adjustments
Dart rotation
A dart manipulation technique in which a pattern is pivoted around the dart apex to close an existing dart while a new dart opens automatically at another edge.
intermediate · Dart & fullness manipulation
Dart tuck
A dart that is stitched only partway to its point and released as soft fabric folds rather than pressed flat, adding gentle shaping with a softer silhouette than a standard dart.
intermediate · Dart & fullness manipulation