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Short for 'unfinished object,' a sewing project that has been started but set aside or abandoned before it was ever completed.

The often bias-cut, slightly smaller layer of a tailored collar that sits against the neck, allowing the upper collar to roll smoothly over it without show-through.

Stitching worked close to a seam that secures a facing or lining to its seam allowance so it rolls neatly to the inside and stays hidden.

A bust dart originating from the side seam near the underarm and pointing toward the bust apex, one of the most common dart placements in bodice drafting.

A layer of fabric cut from the same pattern pieces as the fashion fabric and attached to its wrong side before construction, adding body, opacity or support without showing.

A row of stitching through the facing and seam allowances, close to the seam, that keeps the facing from rolling to the outside of the garment.

A curved, rigid strip, usually plastic-coated metal, encased in fabric channels beneath the cups of a bra to provide structural lift and support.

When top and bottom seam layers creep apart, unequal feed pressure or a fabric mismatch is usually to blame. Use a walking foot, hand-baste slippery layers together, or ease the top layer as you sew.

A hemline that dips or rises around the garment instead of sitting level usually comes from not letting the garment hang before marking, so bias areas drop further. Let it hang, then mark and true the hem.

Stitches that vary in size along a seam usually come from inconsistent feeding, a dull needle snagging the weave, or pulling fabric by hand instead of letting the feed dogs work. Let the machine feed naturally.

Understitching that wanders away from the seamline, leaving the facing visible from outside, comes from sewing too fast or not keeping seam allowances pressed toward the facing. Slow down and hold allowances flat as you stitch.

A general-purpose sewing machine needle with a slightly rounded point, suited to most woven fabrics and light to medium knits.

Removing incorrect stitches without tearing the fabric means cutting only every third or fourth stitch on one side with a seam ripper, then pulling the intact thread free from the other side. Work slowly on delicate weaves.

A British wartime program launched in 1941 that standardized clothing designs to conserve fabric and labor, marking approved garments with a 'CC41' label denoting Controlled Commodity.