Mistakes & fixes

Threads pulling loose around a cut buttonhole usually means the stitching was too loose, the fabric wasn't stabilized, or it was cut open before sewing finished. Interface the area and cut open last with sharp scissors.

A buttonhole that won't let the button through without straining the fabric usually means it was sized to the button's diameter instead of its circumference. Measure the button's girth and test on scrap before cutting.

A collar that rolls or buckles instead of sitting smoothly comes from insufficient understitching, poorly graded seam allowance, or interfacing too stiff or too soft. Grade the allowances and match interfacing weight to the fabric.

Fabric pulling tight and creasing across the crotch of trousers usually comes from a crotch curve too shallow or a rise too short for the wearer. Lower the curve or lengthen the rise in a future muslin.

Diagonal wrinkles radiating from the bust point signal the dart isn't positioned or sized correctly for the wearer's shape. Adjust the dart point toward the fullest part of the bust and check its depth.

An armhole standing away from the body in a visible gap, common on sleeveless garments, comes from an opening cut too large or left unstabilized. Stay-stitch the edge and take a small dart at the gap.

A waistband standing away from the body at the back or sides, despite fitting at the hip, usually means the waist is smaller than the band was cut for. Take in the waistband seam or add a dart.

Side seams that don't align at the waist, hem, or underarm when laid flat usually come from uneven seam allowances or one piece eased more than the other. Pin at key match points and check the allowance.

Small folds at the top of a set-in sleeve cap come from easing stitches not distributed evenly around the curve. Run two rows of ease stitching, gather gently, and pin generously before sewing.

A facing that buckles or shows on the outside instead of lying flat inside usually means it lacks understitching or the interfacing is too heavy. Understitch close to the seam and grade the allowances.

A neckline that gapes and has lost its shape usually comes from cutting on the bias without stabilizing, or handling the edge too much before finishing. Stay-stitch the neckline immediately after cutting.

A side seam or inseam that spirals around the leg or body instead of running straight comes from pieces cut off-grain or one layer eased more than the other while sewing. Recut on true grain where possible.

A hemline that dips or rises around the garment instead of sitting level usually comes from not letting the garment hang before marking, so bias areas drop further. Let it hang, then mark and true the hem.

A hem edge that ripples instead of lying flat, common on flared skirts, comes from turning up a curved edge without easing out the extra fullness. Ease-stitch the raw edge and steam out the fullness before turning.

Rippling fabric along a zipper opening comes from stretching the fabric while sewing or using a zipper the wrong length for the opening. Stabilize the seam with interfacing tape and match zip length to the opening.