Hemp in stretch denim improves wicking, drape—and sewing performance

Researchers at Istanbul Technical University have confirmed what some sewists already suspected: hemp makes denim better to work with. Their study, published in the Research Journal of Textile and Apparel, tested seven different denim blends—including cotton/elastane and cotton/T400/elastane compositions—and found that adding hemp improved moisture wicking, air permeability, and water absorption. More importantly for sewists, the hemp reduced shear and bending stiffness, creating softer, more formable fabric that's easier to sew and shape. Single-core yarns performed particularly well. The findings support what brands like Levi's and Lucky Brand have explored over the past decade, though most denim blends still cap hemp at twenty or thirty percent due to the fiber's natural coarseness. For anyone drafting trousers or jackets in denim, this could shift fabric sourcing conversations—especially as hemp becomes more widely available and easier to handle.